Simon's Town

by Travel Writer Sasha Arms

As you travel down the Cape Peninsula, step back in time by stopping off in Simon's Town. Some say that people only go to Simon's Town on their way to Boulders to see the infamous African Penguins, but Simon's Town is more than a worthy stop in itself. With streets lined with old Victorian buildings in pristine condition, this sleepy town on the sea is a real find.

Simon's Town is in fact South Africa's third oldest town. Named after Simon van der Stel, the Cape's governor in the 1600s, the location was chosen as an alternative harbour to Table Bay during stormy weather. It was later made a royal naval base and remained one of Great Britain's primary regional naval bases for around 160 years. The base was handed back to the South African government in 1957.

Britain's long stretch in the area is undoubtedly why Simon's Town has such an ingrained Victorian feel, even today. Curiously, it's managed to maintain the Victorian façade and ambience to a much greater extent than can even be found in the UK itself. Furthermore, contrary to the stereotype of a run-down naval town, Simon's Town feels demure, safe and somehow homely.

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Eating and drinking in Simon's Town

Your first stop in Simon's Town should definitely be for a bite to eat, or a coffee in the least. Stopping at one of the quaint restaurants or cafés is a guaranteed way to soak up the Simon's Town vibe and get a feel for the place before you explore.

The Meeting Place on Simon's Town's main road – St George's Street – is the perfect place to go to get to know the kind of place the town is. With a whitewashed wooden interior and furniture, peppered with print cushions, it reminds you of a scene from a country living magazine. The wide balcony that stretches along the length of the building on the first floor is the best spot in the restaurant – watch over people going about their business in the sleepy town below and look beyond to the harbour. It's not right on the water, but the sea is almost a stone's throw away. There's nothing better than feeling the sea breeze from one direction and listening to a live band playing lilting tunes inside the Meeting Place from the other. The restaurant serves fresh, trendy food and great quality coffee and cake, depending what you feel like.

The next best spot in Simon's Town is directly on the harbour-front, where there's a cluster of polished restaurants serving fresh seafood. Sit outside to make the most of it. While the location is great and the food is of the highest quality, it doesn't capture the essence of Simon's Town like St George's Street does. Also known as the 'Historic Mile', the concentration of Victorian buildings operating in modern life gives you a real olde worlde feeling.

Museums in Simon's Town

Simon's Town has quite a range of museums for such a small place. They're all located inside the town's quaint buildings, which adds to the exhibits. The Simon's Town Museum in the old governor's residence looks at the area's history, including an exhibition on the apartheid and a room dedicated to both world wars. You can also have a look in the old cells. For more on the apartheid, the Heritage Museum is the place to find it, located in what used to be the home of the Amlay family. After Simon's Town was declared a 'whites only area', 7,000 people from Simon’s Town were removed from their homes, including the Amlays. They were the first residents to return to their home in 1995, and Zainab Amlay (now Davidson) curates the museum. As well as displaying information about how the apartheid affected Simon's Town, it also looks at the cultural heritage of Muslim and Malay communities in the area.

The South African Naval Museum is located in a dockyard warehouse that dates back to the 1700s. It deals with many aspects of the town's maritime history. One particularly impressive exhibit is the replica interior of a submarine which is sized to scale. You can also look inside an old clocktower and the naval chapel, which is still used today.

The Warrior Toy Museum and Collectors' Shop is one man's lovingly collected compilation of toys from different eras, with a focus on model cars and trains. It's a bit of fun of you're into that sort of thing.

Activities in and around Simon's Town

If you're not travelling to Simon's Town by car, the next best way to arrive in style is via the Simon's Town Victorian railway station. The Metrorail train begins in Cape Town and passes directly along the coastline of False Bay before arriving in Simon's Town, the final destination.

Once you've had a look along the Historic Mile and some of its antiquated shops, had a poke around the museums and grabbed a bite to eat, you might feel like doing something a bit more active. ‘Simon's Town Boat Trips’ has something for anyone who wants to get out on the water. They'll take you on a short trip around the harbour and immediate area, or further afield to see the seals at Seal Island. It's likely you'll see dolphins and white sharks too. August to December is whale season, so you can go out to see if you can spot the southern right whales and their young.

There are other good boat operators in the area including African Shark Eco-Charters, which does Great White Shark experiences. For tamer trips you could also hire a sea kayak, or catch a water taxi to Kalk Bay. For those who prefer the safety of dry land, there are plenty of good walks and bike rides along marked trails around Simon's Town too.

© capespirit.com™

Sasha Arms is a freelance writer, editor and web communications strategist. She has travelled extensively, particularly across South Africa, Europe and the Americas and has contributed to a number of notable publications, including the Lonely Planet Bluelist. Read more about Sasha Arms

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